We left Nelson and travelled to the Rainbow station and picked up a key for the gate. Off up the river and parked as the matagari trees thickened. Walked off to Rainbow hut and checked it out. A bit of a shooters shack. Carried on up to a bivvy site.
Ben had us out of bed at 0450 and by 0530 we where off to the gully. Firmly in the 'where are we zone' so back to rocks above camp and onto the NE ridge. All the way to the top with excellent weather. Absailed into the notch and climbed to the summit of Mt Iris at about 1150.
Climbed back down to the notch and Ben cut a bollard and we climbed down the steep snow gulley. As this was going on the weather changed. Snow and rain, got very cold in the wind. We headed N along the slopes and then went down the most eastern of the NE ridges. Often looked steep and impassable in places.
We where back at the campsite at five and off back to the car by six. I was home at half past eleven that night. That was a very enjoyable climb.
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